Warm tropical breezes all day hereI thought I could leave the depressing atmosphere in Banda Aceh by heading 25 km West to Lampuuk to learn some surfing. I was sorely mistaken. This entire town was also wiped out by the tsunami. However rebuilding efforts have done a good thing here. Everywhere there are new houses to replace those destroyed by the water. In fact, there is a refreshing air of optimism here. The beach Lok Nga is supposedly one of the great unknown surfing destinations in Sumatra and
They wanted me to take their pic
And I can’t say that I’m disappointed either. One of the trainee divemasters on Weh suggested that I come down here to learn surfing instead of going to the more famous Pulau Nias. Again, not written in my Rough Guides, I have stumbled upon another jewel of exploration. I’m quite glad that I’ve ditched the recent Lonely Planet and instead decided to head off on my own (not an easy decision mind you). Many people ask me how I knew to come here. I just tell them word of mouth and they’re quite happy. Tourism is starting to pickup for them and I can only hope that it helps them out. I’m not sure if they know the ugly side of tourism yet.
Mmmmm, waves...Yesterday I headed out with my instructor (Adoon) for some surfing lessons. He showed me how to paddle (much harder than it looks, but then I wasn’t using a long board either, the newbie board) and how to stand up on the board (was able to do it once!). I was thinking I would just come here and learn how to bodyboard. But whatever, they don’t have body boards at my bungalow so I might as well just learn to surf! I’m glad I made that decision because its way more fun to surf. Albeit much harder.
My new friends. Apu the bird waits for me every day to finish surfing.I'm slowly teaching him/her how to play nice
Today I went out to a different beach (Lok Nga) which was much better. More consistent waves, very soft, sandy beach to keep from cutting myself up, and plenty of people (primarily girls, although they are Muslim girls) to laugh and watch me struggle. I have finally realized why surfing is so dangerous. When those big waves crash over and you get sucked in, it really feels like you’re in a washing machine. You get spun over and over and over so fast you don’t even know which way is up anymore. Thankfully I have a nice buoyant surfboard attached to my leg so I can always follow the line back to the surface.
I was actually able to get up on my board today (because I had a long board) and I actually rode a few waves! I’ll tell you there is nothing cooler than the feeling you get from riding a wave, even if its just a small one and you’re just heading back to the beach. Although dangerous, I’m in a nice ‘safe’ learning area without any huge waves. I’m still learning to paddle, sit on my board, read the waves and get up, but so far, its been a total blast. I can’t wait till I can turn and actually start to do stuff on the wave! But I guess I still have a few more things to learn. Gotta make sure I don’t drown out there (its easier than I thought!).
Thought the label was quite funny. So appropriate for this region.Surfing is almost like a culture out here. I’m quickly learning that the more you get into a sport, the more you get INTO the sport. Hmm, what to invest my money? Motorcycles, climbing equipment, diving gear, or surfer wear. So many decisions. Money is not really the main factor, nor is safety (sorry Mom!), its what do you want to focus on?
Awesome tropical nights.
1 comment:
ahh.. you've finally discovered the intrigue of surfing.. is it rocky where you are learning? have you had to wear booties? hey.. btw.. when are you calling home again?!
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