From whalesharks to volcanos

Hmm, its been another long while i guess since a post. i figured its about time to do another. Actually, its more like i have time to kill today and sit around and type out this crap. Ha! So here we go.

Its been a good time since i left Donsol but not without its share of rough patches. My sliced thumb that i alluded to in my previous post has finally healed but not without me abusing it throughly. My toe nail that i broke in Basey actually gave me a lot less trouble than i thought it would, and the rash that developed last night has for the most part, gone away (still some left on my legs but whatever). Nothing will stop me! Ha!

And for all the travelling that i've done in the past 7 months, i'm very ashamed to announce that only in the last 2 weeks, have i actually spent the night(s) sleeping in a terminal. Why only now? I have no idea. i guess i'm at the end of my journies and i've become so rugged (or cheap, however you want to describe it) that i have no problem sleeping across a bench or plastic chairs.

Anyways, lets start from where i last left off. I left Donsol in the morning with only a thumb injury (the worst of the 4 recent issues i've had lately). Regardless of the hand injury i still climbed on top of the Jeepney for another spectacular ride. After about 2 hrs, i jumped onto a local bus headed south to a port city which would ferry me across to the next island (Samar). So after about a good 6-7 hrs of travelling by bus and ferry, i arrived in Samar in the city of Allen. Actually, more accurately, the port next to Allen. There were no more buses when i arrived at 6:30 pm that night so the local shop owner suggested i wait for the megataxi at 9 pm. Sure, i'll just take it overnight to Tacloban.

Mmmm, bloody messGeez, now i need to go buy more toilet paper

Just chilling on top

9:30 pm came and went, still no taxi arrived. So instead, the owner suggested i wait for the 1:30 am bus from Manila heading south. 2:00 am arrived, still no bus. So by this time i had been kicked out of the restaurant i was camping out in, and relocated myself into the ferry terminal itself. Without anymore reading material (i was going through the Bourn Identity, a really stupid book, can't believe they made it into a movie) i just adjusted myself and went to bed.

4:30 am i was awake again and ready to grab whatever bus i could. Finally one showed up at 5:00 am and i was on my way again. It was a tough ride down to the next city. And by tough, i mean bumpy roads, huge potholes, swerving bus driver and no AC. Oh, and did i mention i was sitting on the very last seat of the bus? So finally i make it to the next terminal and jump onto another Jeepney and headed over to a small town known as Basey.

Late afternoon ferry

So I arrive in Basey, tired, very hungry and dirty as hell. I go to pull out my bag from under the seat of the Jeepney and guess what? the end of my bag catches my left toenail on my big toe and cracks off 1/4 of it. Blood quickly ensues. I really had no choice but to smile about my luck. A sliced open thumb and now a broken, bloody toenail. How was i supposed to dive and surf now?

I like vanishing points now

Whatever. So i headed to the nearest pharmacy (about 10 m away) and patched myself up and picked up some extra antibiotics for the road. I headed for the town tourist office and got, of course, bad news. I had come to Basey hoping to hike through the forest and see some cool landscapes (this was my thinking before i injured my foot of course). However, as usual, there was no solo hiking. I would need a guide. And with no one to share the guide fee with i was like forget it. I spent the night and headed out the next morning.

Southward bound again. I had skipped the entire island of Samar (i wanted to see more of it but it'll have to be for next time) and popped down into the island of Leyte. I arrived at night of course in the town of Sogod. My final destination was a small town known as Padre Burgos which of course had no more shuttles to Burgos. So i finally coughed up 300 Pesos to pay a moto guy to take me. One magical hour later, i arrived at my dive shop. There really is nothing better than being on a bike on a calm night, cool wind in my face, full moon glistening off a wave less ocean, all in the company of singing cicadas and palm trees zipping by.

The diving itself was not too bad. i did 2 dives the next day (even with my sore thumb and busted toenail) which were nice, but nothing really to write home about. I needed to use the internet and the only place to use it was in a town called Massin, about 30 min away by megataxi. I waited and waited on the side of the road. Nothing went by. So finally i walked to 2 km into town and hopped a mega taxi there. A 30 min ride ended up taking closer to 1 hr, at which point basically brought me into the town as the last megataxis were heading out. Perfect. I quickly used the net ( i don't remember why, i think i needed to do something wiht my camera, which in the end didn't even work) and hunted down the last megataxi. Of course out of sheer luck i did jump into the last one. Only, it never really started. Instead, there weren't enough people to make the trip worth while and so i got booted out.

Nice soft coral companions

Some really picturesque coral

Standing around for the next 45 min waiting for the tricycle i was sitting in to go, i had the chance to sit down and talk to some more locals. All the Filippinos are very friendly and love to talk so i didn't mind. Regardless, the total trip to and from Massin took roughly 4 hrs. And in that time, i spent about 5 min on the internet and bought 1 bottle of water. I wanted dinner as well but there just wasn't any opportunity.

Heading down to 32 m, my personal deep record

Why must people litter in dive sites?
Its bad enough when its on the surface
but when it just floats above the coral, it looks ridiculous!

So, after i got back i decided i've had it. There was no food (good or cheap) where i was staying. There was no internet. There was nothing in the surrounding vicinity to do besides dive. And Massin took just way way too long to go. I packed my stuff and the next day was back out. It took about 4 hrs to get to the next town to catch a ferry over to the final southern island i was headed to (Mindanao).

I forgot exactly how long the ferry trip was but again, i arrived at night. It would be over 12 hrs before the next ferry would depart for the island of Siargao. Starving, sweaty, with a sore thumb and toe, i waited outside the terminal till the security guard let me inside. I was supposed to pay the terminal fee to get in but he let me in anyways. I locked up my bags and prepared for some peaceful sleep in the terminal. This was not to be. All night people kept coming and going, banging on my seat as they passed. A different security guard kept waking me up asking me where i was headed.

But in the end i did get some decent sleep. I was too tired to be really bothered by anything so trivial. In the morning (8:00 am) i woke up hoping to get my tix and depart at 9. Now, no one had said anything to me before but now i understood why they kept harassing me all night. This was the wrong port to goto Siargao! Idiots! Another kind security guard directed me to a tricycle into town and told the driver to bring me to the port. Security guards are so helpful in the Philippines.

I arrived around 9ish and found out that the ferry didn't leave till 12. And it would take 4 hrs! Jesus, i guess i could just wait around. I found an internet cafe close by and searched for flights home. With my hunger getting the better of me, i soon left and went to a local shop for some chicken. At first they thought i wanted to use the toilet. I was like no, i want a Menu. Finally they're like oh, men-U! Ha, i will have to remember to say it like that.

When you gotta go, you gotta go

The boat ride was pretty tough. It was hot and very little wind went though the ship. I finally found a nice, however noisy, little cool spot to sit. 4 hrs later, i arrived in a small port known as Dapa. I popped onto a moto and headed to Cloud 9, a world famous surfing spot where they held yearly competitions in sept or oct. Bouncing down the road, the excitement in me started to build. What would the surf be like? How long am i going to stay? I'm going surfing! Its been too long since i was last standing on a board riding a 1 m wave.

Beautiful sunny day

Looking back at Mindanao

I arrived at what was probably one of my favorite guesthouses in the Philippines, or even, of my entire trip. Although a little expensive, the food was decent and the room was acceptable. but what kept me from moving on were the people. Specifically the girls that were working there. So much fun. Can't say enough. I went out with them to the local disco (and i mean local) two times and to a bar another time (6 ppl on a moto!). Great place. Want to go back so bad.

Sunset massageOut at the disco! yes, its a basketball court.Sunset over the surf zone

Surfing was another story. A 5 min walk from my place was Cloud 9, Quicksilver and Jacking/rocking horse. All reef breaks (which messed me up last time in Lombok, Indo) which i was not too excited about but willing to try again. Now over estimating my skills just a little, i grabbed the short boards (7 foot and 7'4") and headed out for Jacking horse. Supposedly a good beginner break according to one of the people staying there. I should have talked to the owner instead but at the time, he was the most experienced.

Contemplating what i would like on my tombstone.
Died challenging Cloud 9?

Welcome to Cloud 9

So two problems were inherent right from the start. First, the board was way too short for me. I probably couldn't have stood on it even if the break was easy. Second, the break was not very easy to surf. The wave formed way too fast, it was too shallow, and there a constant current. in fact, there were 2 different currents. If you were in the crash zone (where the wave comes down) the current hold you in, if you were outside of the crash zone, the current pushed you out. So all these things added together, compounded by the fact that it was a long paddle out and my arms were really out of shape, made for some really, really, really frustrating surfing. I went out 3 times in 2 days. Twice at high tide and the last time at low tide. Not a great idea considering the waves are breaking over a reef. Didn't take long before i got smashed by a wave, pushed under and dragged along the reef. For my troubles, i got a scrapped up left knee. Injury number 3.

This is what it looks like when you get sucked under by a wave.
Notice the very shallow water
This was snorkling btw, not much to see out there,
but sometimes there is something interesting.

Finally, forcing myself to swallow my pride ( i had too, i hadn't caught a single wave in the past 3 sessions) i grabbed the 8 foot mini mal and headed back out to jacking horse. This board has always been my favorite length and design because i've caught the most waves with it. Not having a great day out on the waves, but much better than the past two, i soon realized that its not me, its the board. Its the board damnit! Turning in that day after 3 long hrs battling the ocean i was told all the problems associated with Jacking horse. Great, what a waste of time! The next day i would goto quicksilver.

Some other good surfer at Cloud 9

Out and up early the next morning on what was to be my final day was as usual, bittersweet. In the first hour, i caught more waves then i had in the previous 3 days. I was back in the zone! Catching waves left and right. It was all about the break i soon realized. I should have came here days ago! So much easier to read the wave form and paddle around.

Walking out to C9. Its pretty shallow at low tide

But the icing on the cake came from the last wave that i rode that day. And this time, i mean i actually rode a wave! It is one of those special moments that come far and few between. After about 2 weeks of surfing in various places around Indonesia, i have finally done it. It wasn't the biggest wave. It wasn't the hardest break. What it was, was the culmination of 15ish days (4 in Siargao) of paddling, near drownings, scrapped knees, bruised stomach and bad hair days. I paddled with the wave, popped up and turned! Gliding over the forming wave front, staring through clear aqua marine waters at the passing reef, gives the sense of accomplishment like no other. I have to surf some more.

Crazy bastards

I wish i didn't have to leave, but it was time to go. I called it quits the min i returned back to my place after riding my first wave. I needed to leave on a high note. Now was the best time. That night we went to the disco and i said by to all the friends i had made over the last few days. It was sad to leave but then again, its life as a traveller. I left at 4:45 am the next morning.

Nudibranch!

Woken up by my driver, 1/2 asleep, 1/2 tipsy from the alcohol the night before, i jumped onto the back of the moto and headed back to the port of Dapa. I popped into a med sized pumpboat and headed back to Surigao. 3 hrs later (supposed to be a 2 hr trip) we arrived and i walked to an internet cafe where i booked my flight home (finally). An hour later i jumped into a Jeepney which took me to the bus terminal. 3 hrs later i was in Butuan, where i caught another bus to Balingoan. Another 3 hrs later i arrive and immediately jumped onto a ferry headed to Camiguin. 1.5 hrs later i was hanging off the back of a Jeepney heading to my place.

Camiguin, home to 7 different volcanos

I finally sat down for my first meal of the day at 7 pm. The place i wanted to stay was full so i moved in next door. I went crazy for the food. 1/2 fried chicken with rice, 120 Pesos. What a steal. So after a full day of traveling, sweaty and stinky (i had run out of deodorant a few days back, who would have thought that can of Axe i bought in manila would die so fast?), an itchy spot here and there was pretty normal right? As the itchiness began to get worse i began to suspect mozzys were kicking my ass. I finished up my meal and headed back to my room where i gave myself the privacy and comfort to scratch myself all over.

What was happening? Were there bedbugs or something around? It was itchy all over. Even my face wasn't spared. I stopped for a second to take a shower and soon realized what it was. Some kinda allergic reaction to something. Damn, probably my dirty clothes or something. I popped open my med kit and pulled out the Calmen lotion, which was bought in China over 1 year ago. When i was in China I used a dirty towel on my face and it puffed up just like my face was now. I suspected the same issue this time. I slathered that pink cream all over myself and the itching soon stopped.

Damn its itchy

At least till this morning. But whatever, i'm fine now. Its almost all gone (as well as the tube of Calmen) and all is better. And to think, i was going to toss that tube less than a mere 48 hrs before because i thought it was useless.

So that should bring things back up to speed. Surfing has been the highlight of the past 2 weeks, and a close second to the whaleshark. I plan to finish up with some more diving, diving, diving. Hey, i'm in a country with over 7000 islands, what else am i going to do?